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700 conversion tips

Installing a 700 in a "non-700" application, is not too difficult, and is even easier if the vehicle is GM made and happens to already have an automatic transmission. It is impossible for me to include every detail that you may need to know for your intended project, but the following details apply to most installations. I have installed 700's in many different types of vehicles, ranging from a '34 Ford Coupe, '40 Ford pickup, numerous 50's Chevy pickups, and my own '57 Studebaker 2dr wagon, to late model Camaros, GM two, and four-wheel drives, and plenty of other applications, and have used these following suggestions, repeatedly, to produce what I think is a "sanitary" installation. Keep in mind, as you perform a conversion of any type, what your overall goals are. I am reminded of a story about a person that wanted to improve his Jeep truck (he loved to fourwheel), by installing a V8 in place of the original 6 cylinder engine. Nearing completion of the conversion, he noticed that the front driveshaft would not easily fit in it's original location; It was interfering with the engine oil pan, so he left the front drive line out, and can no-longer go fourwheeling! Some improvement!!

Generally, what I want, in any type of conversion, is to IMPROVE the vehicle. I also happen to have great respect for the engineers that originally designed the vehicle. For the most part, they did a great job designing the vehicle, making the vehicle safe, reliable, and delivering satisfactory performance, for most normal applications, and it would seem to me, to be arrogant, on my part, to think that I can, so easily, improve on what a team of engineers, and plenty of research and development funds were able to do.

With this in mind, do your conversion meticulously;

Make cooler lines out of New 5/16" (in most cases) steel line, and bend the lines carefully (with a tube bender), and double flare the ends. Don't use copper line, or fuel hose!
Use a new, factory type transmission mount, and make a crossmember (if your installation requires it) that is as close to factory style, as possible.
Make sure the TV cable is in good condition, and use the factory TV cable brackets (at the carburetor), as well as a factory TV hookup on the Carburetor. Make sure that it is adjusted properly.
Use an original type dipstick tube, and matching stick. If you don't have the original "stuff", buy a new tube and stick at your local GM dealer.
Use a torque converter cover. If you don't have one, go out and buy one, again, at the dealer.
Use a factory type manual control linkage, and hook it up, and adjust it properly.
Install new U-joints....good ones. I prefer Spicer....And make the driveshaft the proper length; don't settle for a driveshaft that is "good enough for a test drive, and I will have one made later...."
Make sure that the flywheel is not bent, and the teeth are in good shape.
Don't install a shift kit in any 700R4. (This is my own "gut felt recommendation"; some people like to use shift kits in 700's)
Make sure the wiring to the TCC(Torque Converter Clutch) circuit is properly done, and verify that the torque converter does lock-up properly during the test drive.
Install new torque converter bolts, and use #242 locktite on the threads (the threads are 10mm X 1.5, don't use the standard 3/8-16 bolts that may have been in your previous transmission's torque converter)
Make sure the dowels, in the engine block, extend into the transmission case adequately, and that the engine block mating surface is clean.
Take pride in your installation

One question that I am frequently asked: How long is the 700?, and did they make one that would fit a Buick, Pontiac, Olds (B.P.O.), Cadillac?
The 700 is approximately the same length as a "medium shaft" 350 (6" long tail housing), which came as standard equipment in many GM trucks in the '70's, which is about 3" longer than the common "short shaft" 350 that came in many GM Cars, and trucks, and the output shaft on the 700 is the same spline as the 350, as well as the 200 transmission, and the yokes are interchangeable, making for an easy installation in most GM vehicles. The 700 is only available in the Chevrolet version, and I do not recommend the "adapter plate" that converts the chevy to the B.P.O. bolt pattern.

Wiring the TCC(Torque Converter Clutch) controls

There are two main controls governing TCC application. First, there are hydraulic controls, that control lock-up timing, and application, and Second, there are electrical devices that control, and override the hydraulic controls.
The electrical controls include, a lock-up solenoid, pressure switches, low-vacuum switch, and a brake-cancel switch.
The following is my recommendations for wiring the lockup circuit in an earlier conversion.

I recommend running an accessory hot wire (hot only when the key is on), through a normally open brake cancel switch. This switch will allow current flow, only when it is depressed; The brake pedal depresses the switch, normally, and releases the switch when the brake is applied. This switch works exactly opposite the brake light switch, whereas the brake light switch allows current, only when the brake pedal is depressed, the cancel switch interrupts current when the brake pedal is depressed, thereby unlocking the torque converter clutch in a panic stop.
From the brake cancel switch, power is routed through the low-vacuum switch (GM part#14014519 interrupting power when the vacuum is low, such as heavy throttle), and connected to the transmission. Inside the transmission, I normally route power through a 4/3 switch (GM part# 8642346 normally closed), and then to the solenoid. I use an internally grounded solenoid (GM part#8654123), so there is no need to run a separate ground circuit. There are other ways to accomplish the same thing, but I feel this is the easiest way to do it RIGHT!!

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Where do I get a manual for the 700?