I do not build racing transmissions, and do not care to build racing transmissions. I build "stock" transmissions, for "conventional" applications, to be used under "normal" driving conditions. I build transmissions that will last as long, or longer than the original transmission, in most cases, and "update" them to take care of any "weak link" components that typically cause the transmission to malfunction.
If you are interested in racing transmissions, I suggest contacting someone in the "racing transmission" business, like Art Carr, or Darrel Young, for a possible solution to your performance related transmission needs.
The truth is, in most cases, transmissions work well, offer reasonable mileage, before failure (around 100K miles, which is what they were designed to do), but are not "overdesigned" because people are simply not willing to pay extra for it, and, if the manufacture was to "beef them up", and raise the price accordingly, competing manufactures would then get the "edge". They work well, if they are maintained, and have knowledgeable technicians take care of problems when they first develop, and nothing is modified, unless a real problem is identified and well proven, generally accepted "updates" are performed.
The amusing part, for me, is when a "hot rodder" comes along, talking about how the "dumb engineers cannot design anything that will hold up!", modifying the engine to deliver twice the original factory horsepower, and torque specifications, and then expect the transmission to hold up. When the transmission does not hold up, they tend to adopt modifications that, although seem to be improvements at first glance, are not well thought out, and based on unsubstantiated engineering premises. Without understanding anything about shift overlap, and the importance of smooth shifts, to keep from "hammering" on drive train components, these "high performance engineers", often times, cause more problems than they set out to solve, and then, when the transmission fails again, it is called "a junk transmission design".
Now, don't get me wrong. I am a "hot rodder" by nature, and have had my share of fast cars, and raced some of them at a drag strip, but I have found that factory parts, installed to factory specifications, is the best starting point to building a successful hot rod. Then, when a modification is needed, try to envision the way an engineer would tackle your particular "problem", and design every component on the car to work at it's best, based on the modifications that you have created. For example, if you are building an engine, you need to sit down, with a sheet of paper, and "engineer" the engine, first, so that every component will work, complimenting every other component; it would make no sense to install a 320 degree duration camshaft, designed for high RPM engine operation, in four-wheel drive vehicle, used for slow, "rockcrawling", any more than it would to install your "rockcrawling" engine in a top fuel dragster. In terms of automatic transmissions, for example, if you altered a clutch to apply more quickly, during a gear change, to create a "crisp shift", you must also take into account that, in many cases, a clutch, or band, may have to release, also, to make that gear change happen, and so, this release would have to happen more quickly, to avoid a shift "bind-up" from occurring, that, although a bind-up can make a shift feel more "crisp", can actually make the transmission fail more quickly.